Tag Archives: wool

Herbal Allies

Look at these lovely dandelion roots!

Merry meet all,

Oh shiver me timbers. It’s cold here today. It’s also finally October! (so, who cares about the cold?) Pumpkins rest on the front decks and porches of many homes. People turn up the heat and dig out their winter woollies, in anticipation of the cold weather fall brings. My cat is napping under the blankets, and I’m sipping hot tea. I’m wearing a wool cardigan and a pair of slippers. I even wear wool cardigans with my pyjamas. That is how we Maritimers do things here. 

Now is the time for preparing soups, stews and other hot meals. We can use certain herbs and spices to keep us healthy through the fall and winter too. Since I have been studying at the Herbal Academy, I have become acquainted with a few amazing herbs. Astragalus, liquorice root, Eleuthero root, elecampane, elderberry, echinacea. I am of course familiar with lemon, ginger, white onion and these are very potent and very good to have on hand through the cold season. The other herbs above are powerful allies in fighting colds and flus in their own right. 

I’m brewing a jar of hawthorn cordial. The ingredients are steeping in a jar. The ingredients are hawthorn berries, an apple, ginger, cardamom, vanilla, cinnamon, lemon zest, hibiscus, honey and brandy. I didn’t have any pomegranate and the strawberries went sour. I know the other flavours will lend a rich taste to the cordial. Hawthorn is well known for being a good heart medicine. I added all the ingredients, stirred it well with a wooden spoon and it will now steep for four weeks. The fruits, herbs and spices are powerful aids for easing digestion at the end of a day. 

Confession: I was just out on a walk. Hurricane Fiona tore up a lovely elderberry shrub. I walked along the trail to help the shrub. I was saddened to discover the shrub lay dead on its side. I found a patch of dandelion and dug it up, roots and all.  I cleaned the roots and chopped them up then left them to dry with the other root pieces. The day before I also harvested dandelion & burdock root. The roots loaded with medicinal properties are  drying out in my kitchen. I plan to make a dandelion and burdock root tincture. I will savour every drop! Dandelions are best harvested in the fall and spring. The energy of the plant returns deep down to the roots, and then the roots contain more inulin and less fructose. 

I also harvested plantain seeds, astilbe seeds and lady’s mantle. They are drying in open jars. I just collected about 4 seedpods from my beautiful witch hazel. The leaves are turning green to gold. Such a magical tree! The witch hazel flowered too. I shall do my best to produce a photo of the golden spidery flowers. 

I stored a big harvest of lavender in a big brown paper bag, sage and hyssop from my Mom’s garden. I made a sage wand with some of the sage. I have a recipe for a sage oxymel and I may try that with it or save the garden sage for cooking. I hope I got seeds! The sage is growing well in my garden. 

I harvested LOTS of elderberries before the hurricane. Some of the elderberry shrubs survived the hurricane, much to my relief. They look wilted now. However, they have all fall, winter and into spring to recover, provided there are not more storms like Hurricane Fiona! I hope not. I plan to make elderberry syrup and elderberry mead! I bought a fermentation kit. I can’t wait to get started but I have to get some champagne yeast first. 

I harvested some purple aster, goldenrod, more German chamomile, and wild chamomile from the trail. It is not true chamomile but it is not poisonous. They will make a nice autumnal tea, rich in health boosting properties. When I come home from the trail, I am usually covered in burdock seeds! Fortunately, they are easy to remove. I leave the seeds outside. They may grow into a beautiful burdock plant! The nettle is growing well in my kitchen thanks to the grow lights. It stings my fingers sometimes.  

I harvested a huge amount of lemon balm from my garden. I am sure I can find something to use it for!

Now, I will go in more detail about the herbs to demonstrate their potency. 

Astragalus is best prepared as a decoction. You simmer the herbs in water in a pot then if you choose to, let it cool.  Astragalus mongholicus aids the respiratory system. It can be used in decoctions, infusions, soups and stews. 

Burdock is a good herb/ tonic for the liver. 

Chamomile is an excellent nervine and adaptogen. The tiny flowers right down to the roots are potent! Chamomile is usually consumed to relax and release the stresses of the day. 

Dandelions are loaded with nutrients. I can’t understand why people are so hellbent on getting a plant brimming with medicinal properties out of their yards. I made a lovely Scandinavian dandelion syrup with the yellow flowers. This fall, I shall make a tincture! Dandelions contain vitamins A, C, K D, E & B. They also contain potassium. Dandelions detoxify the liver as does burdock. Dandelions slow down aging, reduce blood pressure and lowers cholesterol. What is there to complain about? I plan to add dandelions as a serious addition to my diet for as long as I can. I will save some for the bees!

Ginger root is fiery and spicy. I drink ginger tea to ease nausea and stomach problems. It also acts at least for me as a nervine. A nervine helps support the nervous system. Other herbs that are nervines are chamomile, oat tops, skullcap and lemon balm. 

Elderberry is fickle. Elderberries are poisonous to the unwary traveller. I am studying at the Herbal Academy. I know that the tiny dark purple berries and in fact, the whole shrub from the berry to the root contains cyanide. Never eat them raw! It is best to cook them and/ or dry them then add them to tinctures, jams, meads and syrups. That removes the toxin and then they boost your immune system. 

Elecampane roots contain inulin. I saved the seeds in a jar. I am waiting till mid-October to harvest the roots. That will be a post here of its own. The roots of elecampane contain the most inulin in the fall. The energy of the plant travels downward to the roots.

–Medicinal Action and Uses—Diuretic, tonic, diaphoretic, expectorant, alterative, antiseptic, astringent and gently stimulant. It was employed by the ancients in certain diseases of women, also in phthisis, in dropsy and in skin affections. Its name ‘Scabwort’ arose from the fact that a decoction of it is said to cure sheep affected with the scab, and the name ‘Horse-heal’ was given it from its reputed virtues in curing the cutaneous diseases of horses.

In herbal medicine it is chiefly used for coughs, consumption and other pulmonary complaints, being a favourite domestic remedy for bronchitis. It has been employed for many years with good results in chest affections, for which it is a valuable medicine as it is in all chronic diseases of the lungs asthma and bronchitis. It gives relief to the respiratory difficulties and assists expectoration. Its principal employment as a separate remedy is in acute catarrhal affections, and in dyspepsia attended with relaxation and debility, given in small, warm and frequently repeated doses. It is, however, seldom given alone, but most frequently preferred in combination with other medicines of a similar nature. It is best given in the form of decoction, the dose being a small teaspoonful, three times a day.

The root used not only to be candied and eaten as a sweetmeat, but lozenges were made of it. It has been employed in whooping-cough. It is sometimes employed in the form of a confection for piles, 1 OZ. of powdered root being mixed with 2 OZ. of honey.

In the United States, it has also been highly recommended, both for external use and internal administration in diseases of the skin, an old use of the root that has maintained its reputation for efficacy.

Externally applied, it is somewhat rubefacient, and has been employed as an embrocation in the treatment of sciatica, facial and other neuralgia.

Of late years, modern scientific research has proved that the claims of Elecampane to be a valuable remedy in pulmonary diseases has a solid basis. One authority, Korab, showed in 1885 that the active, bitter principle, Helenin, is such a powerful antiseptic and bactericide, that a few drops of a solution of 1 part in 10,000 immediately kills the ordinary bacterial organisms, being peculiarly destructive to the Tubercle bacillus. He gave it successfully in tubercular and catarrhal diarrhoeas, and praised it also as an antiseptic in surgery. In Spain it has been made use of as a surgical dressing. Obiol, in 1886, stated it to be an efficient local remedy in the treatment of diphtheria, the false membrane being painted with a solution of Helenin in Oil of Almond.

Credit given to A Modern Herbal website about elecampane.

Goldenrod is a beautiful yellow flower. I dyed fabric with goldenrod this summer. It is an ideal herb for helping support your sinuses. It’s drying on a rack in my kitchen. I have never tried goldenrod tea before. It is good for helping urinary tract infections, treating or preventing kidney stones, and acts as a diuretic. 

Today I also embarked on yet another creative project. In the past, I made a Summer Solstice lantern. This fall I made an Autumn Equinox lantern (even though it’s October). I painted the jar brown. I had previously dried flowers, leaves etc, that were associated with fall. I selected fiery red stag horn sumac leaves, a lovely white daisy, an oak leaf, red maple leaves, gorgeous golden tickseed, a golden maple leaf, and a lovely dandelion flower. The warm autumnal colors of fall shine on the jar. I coated the jar with a deep brown paint mixed with Mod Podge to make the paint adhere to the jar. I left it to dry overnight. This morning I added the pressed leaves and flowers. I coated them with Mod Podge to make them stick. I wound a brown twine wire cord to the jar to make the handle. I secured the wire with a hot glue gun. 

These herbal allies will support you all fall and winter with their health boosting properties. I can’t wait to get started using these herbs this fall. I hope you all find your own herbal allies. Tell me all about it. 

Blessings, Spiderwitch

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Wool coat progress

Merry meet all,

Spring is on its way! Ostara is just around the corner. Ostara, or the spring equinox, is the second spring Sabbat in the wheel of the year. 

I made progress with my wool coat. I have finally sewn the coat lining. That was a real headache. I added a half inch to each lining section and each of the eleven sections were cut on the grain. This means that the lining won’t pull or twist when I wear it with the wool exterior. I sewed the sleeves. I had to ease the two sleeve pieces in together. I eased the sleeve on one side then I pinned the 2 pieces together. I used the iron to stretch the wool to make the upper and lower sleeve pieces fit together. The wool is thick and I can hardly even get a pin through. It worked. Now I set in two rows of basting stitches within the seam allowance of the sleeve crown. The thread is a contrast color to make it easier to remove them later. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I was so tired but I worked hard stitching all eleven sections of the lining together. Then I did a fitting once the whole coat lining was sewn. The coat lining was sewn with a 4’8 inch stitch. The wool coat was sewn with a 5’8′ inch stitch. I have to set in the sleeves, sew the belt carriers, sew the upper collar to the coat lining, sew the lining to the coat and hem it. Then once I am happy with that, I will sew in the buttonholes. I already purchased the buttons for the coat. My sewing machine has a button foot but I have zero experience sewing buttonholes. I know someone who will help with that step but that happens later. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The coat is coming along beautifully. I have to correct the seam allowances in the sleeve area of the wool exterior. I tapered to 3’8′ of an inch instead of 5’8′ inches. If I correct all that, then the sleeves will set in perfectly. There is a bit of work to be done but it will all pay off in the end. I have to sew the lining sleeves the exact same way I did with the wool sleeves. The lining always mimics the exterior of the coat. I am sure it will be beautiful. 

The research and the reading I did has paid off. I now feel more confident sewing the coat. I intend to finish the coat this week or early next week. After all, I have waited two months for this. Spring will be here then there will be no point to wearing a wool coat. Yup I better make it happen!

I not only gain a beautiful coat. I have gleaned new useful knowledge from sewing the coat. I love using a tailor’s ham and honestly don’t know how I lived without it. I also now own a sleeve roll which will soon prove very useful. I cut the lining sections on the grain which means the garment will hang more correctly on your body. I added interfacing to the sleeve caps to prevent stretching. I added a strip of interfacing to the pockets of the coat to prevent stretching. I added interfacing to the collar sections even though I didn’t have to, but it will strengthen the collar sections. I plan to add shoulder pads to the coat. I decided against sewing on a fur collar. If the fur sheds, it won’t look good. I am sewing on a detachable lined hood. I may make the hood permanent because sewing buttonholes on the hood with all that bulk will be next to impossible. That is why the belt carriers are sewn on before the lining is added. There is a lot to consider in the proper construction of a wool coat. 

I added the shoulder pads, sewed the sleeves into the coat lining and sewed the lining to the coat. It was far from complete, though. The wool coat is now lined. The collar points were sewn to perfection thanks to my Mom. The wool sleeves are attached. It has been tons of hard work. The lining has to be hemmed and the buttonholes have to be done. So much work!!!! She wants to fix the belt carriers and sew in the buttonholes. So much work!!! 

The photo shows the progress of the coat so far!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The coat is done. All that remains to be done is to sew on the hood. I am so happy with the coat. It looks so beautiful. 

Spring is coming. I should start planning which seeds I will start soon. I have lots and lots of seeds. I can’t wait to get to work on my garden again. 

Blessed be, Spiderwitch

 

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Wool coat of my dreams in the Making

Merry meet all,

I am bitten by the sewing bug once again! My next sewing project is a wool coat. Inspirations seized me! I wish the muse would arrive and help me with writing the same way but that’s another story. The coat will be tons of hard work. I am nervous about sewing it so to combat my anxiety, I have researched how others have done it and how it is done. I have been lucky so far. The pattern is vintage and has lots of details: a lined hood with darts, buttons and buttonholes, facing and interfacing, upper and lower collars, a centre front and back with middle fronts and backs, and side front and side back. It is enough to scare the most seasoned sewer. 

This project will not be an instant overnight effort. It may take me a week to a month to sew the coat. I have the lining fabric, I have cut out the pattern tissue, the pattern pieces. I want to do a mock up of the whole garment but I can’t afford it right now. I did a mock up of the sleeves. I am really glad I did for two reasons: I realized I needed to add an inch to the lower hem of the under sleeves on each arm and I learned how to sew the under sleeve to the upper sleeve. I also learned how the sleeve would feel on my body. I can easily move my arm up, down and in a circle. Making adjustments early on in the construction of the coat saves a person so much pain later on. When I cut out the pattern pieces (of the wool), I laid the whole 4 meters down on the floor and cut each pattern piece out in a single layer. I had to sweep and mop the floor – cat hair much? Then I flipped over the pattern tissue to cut the pattern on the left side. The fabric covered the kitchen floor. 

I like the colour of the lining for the coat. It matches the coat and has a brown reddish colour but it will do. The interfacing is black except for the belt. The black interfacing will match the brown wool coat. The fabric for the coat is a gorgeous brown soft wool/polyester fabric. I love it. Oh so beautiful! The interfacing for the belt is white but it will be concealed. I have the threads, a belt buckle, the belt pattern is cut out and ready to go and I cut out the pattern too for the belt carriers. The belt does not go with the McCalls 6800 pattern B, but I love how couture it looks. So the belt stays. 

I pinned the centre front, middle front and side front patterns together and tried it on. The centre front pattern piece stops just above my knee. The pattern of the coat has a high and low hem. I hope it all fits me correctly. I might get a bit of fabric from Fabricville so I can do a mock up of the rest of the coat. Or if that isn’t possible, I can pin all the pattern pieces together and try it on and see how it fits on me. I don’t own a full length mirror or a dress form (at least not one that truly mirrors my figure), so I have to wait until I can get a mirror. In the meantime, I will pin all the pattern pieces together then see how it fits on me. Again, if I am to make a mock up of the left side of the whole coat for myself, I need newspaper, tracing paper, muslin etc, to do it. 

I still have to cut out the lining and the interfacing for the coat. After that, I need to transfer all the markings and notches to the wrong side of the pattern on the wool fabric. I am going to make my own press cloth. I don’t want to scorch the wool and so I will not be pressing on the top right side of the garment, only on the wrong side. I sew the facings to the lining and sew the lining and facing to the coat. That is so just nightmare inducing. I can’t get my head around how I turn the facing and lining to the inside of the coat. But I am not at that stop yet. I am grateful that I had enough fabric for all these pattern pieces. I searched for the fabric at Fabricville but I didn’t see it there. I purchased 4.5 meters of the beautiful soft brown wool. There was not much remaining on the bolt after that. I also bought the wool on sale – 50% off a meter! Excellent. 

Anything that is worth doing is worth all the hard effort. I am confident I will turn out a beautiful brown wool coat. This investment has to last a lifetime. Wool is a resilient fabric! I completed the bodice corset that I sewed to accompany the awesome black witchy top I bought from Killstar. I need to add on a black bias tape so the lining of the corset doesn’t show on the outside or top side of the bodice. I need to stock up on extra bobbins. 

This may be extra ambitious of me well, anyone hoping to sew a wool coat is ambitious period, but I’m sewing my own press cloth. I just laid two pieces of white cloth together and tucked in the raw edges. I ironed and pressed it. I will sew it once I have an extra bobbin. I was hoping to go to Fabricville today but I have to wait the delivery of a parcel- a bad ass hoodie from Wish. I have muslin for a press cloth fabric but the sewing machine won’t sew muslin. Argh! I am not the patient type but in order to make the coat, I shall have to try. 

The next turn in the Wheel of the Year is Imbolc! I shall keep you posted!

 

Blessings, Spiderwitch

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