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Sewing Patterns Mayhem )O(

Merry meet all,

Imbolc is almost here! I have had a huge creativity streak lately. I usually feel exceptionally creative when Imbolc rolls around. Imbolc is the first of the three spring Sabbats. I am very relieved. That brings us all closer to spring, for those who live in the Northern hemipshere. 

I sewed myself a blue skirt the other day. The project took two days to complete. The challenge was sewing the yoke to the skirt.

 

My new homemade blue skirt

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have a new sewing project in mind. I bought a few meters of beige cotton knit fabric that I originally intended to use for the nightgown. It was too heavy for a nightgown. I still have the fabric. Then inspiration struck! I now intend to sew myself a Renaissance outfit. I have a sewing pattern for it, but the pattern is not in the right size. I’m ordering the pattern in the right size. Once I have the pattern, then I can sew the garment. The pattern is shown in the photo below:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I decided against sewing a dress from the beige knit fabric. They require such precision and a million fittings. A peasant blouse is so easy to sew. For once, I think I will choose sewing something easy instead of complex. 

The garment will consist of a beige cotton knit peasant blouse and a skirt, a bodice and an overskirt. I have a long brown cotton skirt that I made from the original pattern. That would look good with the pattern. I already have fabric and brown thread for the bodice. I found the brown velveteen fabric in my fabric stash. I bought a meter of brown cotton for the lining and I found interfacing in my stash. I just need several d-rings ( my skills at inserting eyelets leaves much to be desired). I want to add the peplum to the bodice as well as embroidered trim. I bought plenty of brown ribbon to lace up the bodice. I am glad that this project is not costing me a lot of money. I already own most of the supplies I need. I do have to buy dark blue bias tape for the bodice. I love Fabricville, but I love the trims and ribbons on Etsy. I noticed that in the largest photo on the front of the sewing pattern shows the model wearing a bias tape that is a darker color, so I want to do the same. The dark blue color brings out the pink color of the bodice. The variety and quality is much better on Etsy. 

I bought a few meters of beautiful cream white organdy lace on Etsy. I have yet to decide how I will use it with the blouse and skirt. I am sure I can figure it out. I do believe that the outit will look amazing! I’m relieved that I thought of ways to use up the fabric that just sat in my stash. I have so much beige fabric that I could sew the overskirt and skirt from the same fabric. Or I could make the overskirt brown too. It could go either way. I’m happy to get the pattern in my size because figuring out how to grade the original pattern would have been such a headache. I am not that skilled! The pattern was hard to find in the sizes I wanted. I may sew the lace to the overskirt and to the sleeve hems! That would look romantic and a great way to use up the lace. 

The lace organdy fabric

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The beige and browns are earthy colors. I have all of the remaining winter and spring to work on it. Maybe I will try learning a new skill such as machine embroidery! I have to practice before I would consider doing machine embroidery on the brown velvet. Sewing a trim to fabric is easier. That would look great though. Winter is a season to turn inward and be reflective and spring is the wild, untamed transition of new life and birth. I still see earthy browns and beiges as pertaining to spring. The mud is softer and tiny buds emerge from the soil. I ordered a nice brown embroidered trim from Etsy. I can’t wait for it to arrive. 

I sewed a mock up of the bodice pattern. I am glad I did as I could determine how much fabric I really needed to make the bodice. The brown velveteen fabric is lovely. I cut out the material last night very carefully. Now sewing the bodice will be much easier. I sewed the overskirt too. I wore the long brown skirt, the overskirt and the beige peasant blouse to the Imbolc Ritual. I had no time to sew the bodice. But now I have lots of time.

I was fortunate to have lots of elastic for the sewing project. I made an elastic casing at the neckline, sleeves and the bodice hem. I sewed an elastic casing for the overskirt. I chose it that way because the ribbon was lost in the casing. I find elastic easier to work with. The fabric for the overskirt was very slippery. I sewed in a zigzag stitch for the hem of the overskirt. I also changed the length of the hem for the brown skirt. I still tripped in it. I felt so feminine when I wore it and I recieved lots of compliments. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sewing the bodice was more work than I anticipated. I am glad I made the mockup. I knew how much material to add to the pattern. I cut out the brown bodice fabric, first checking that I was cutting on the grain. The outer material of the bodice is brown velveteen. The lining is a brown broadcloth cotton. I set them aside. When I was ready to work on it, I moved on to the next step – adding the interfacing. That was a royal headache. I even cut out a second front bodice section. I had trouble deciding if I wanted the main bodice section to have the dart sewn in, or if I would add that to the extra material in the bodice. I decided to go with sewing the darts in the main bodice front section. The interfacing was a royal headache. Once I had the right sections interfaced – and that was a headache in itself, I set it all aside again. When I was again ready to sew again, I pulled it out. I set up my sewing machine  and all my tools. I had to stitch carefully. I did not want to mess up the bodice. It is harder to correct when working with velveteen. I stitched the front and back corset sections together. I trimmed the interfacing to help conceal it. I sewed the lining to the bodice. I sewed it all carefully and slowly. I feel I have more control over it all that way. 

Sewing the bias tape to conceal the raw edges was also a headache. The bias tape wanted to roll out. I also had to seam rip the bias tape and bodice fabric to reduce the bulk. It looked better when that was done. I snipped all the stray threads. There were many times during the course of sewing the bodice that I wanted to scream from the hilltops. I matched the seams of the front center bodice sections together. The front center sections of the bodice met evenly once the bulky seams were trimmed. I am very handy with a seam ripper. Then the next step that I dreaded was installing the grommets. That almost gave me a stomach ache. Okay I had originally purchased d rings to use for the lacing, but I decided to master a new skill and try my hand at setting in the grommets. I had survived interfacing, sewing the bodice sections together, and endured sewing on the bias tape – I could survive this. 

I bought black grommets in a little kit. I practiced hammering in the grommets on spare fabric. When I was confident I could do it on the bodice, I gathered an awl, a screwdriver, a seam ripper, scissors and the kit. I marked where I wanted the grommets to be set in. This is why it is good to not skip the step of adding the interfacing. The fabric is strengthened by the interfacing. It also means it is harder to poke an awl through the fabric. I poked twice with the awl, then the screwdriver to enlarge the hole I created. I twisted the screwdriver in the hole a few times. I used a seam ripper to help tear the hole a little larger – but not too much. I want the grommets to crimp or ‘eat’ the fabric, but not make too big of a hole. Then I set in the larger grommet piece. I had to set ten pieces in. Okay once the grommet piece was snug in the hole- pushed in from the right side of the fabric, then I set the other piece from the wrong side. I pushed them together (not hard), to make them meet. I set the fabric down on the cutting board, face down and I positioned the tiny hammer tool on the grommet, and hammered the grommet into the fabric. I was amazed that I did it right. I did it right nine more times. I also had to make sure the grommets were truly across from each other on the bodice sections. I hammered in the grommets so hard that the impressions of the grommets are left in the wood. The grommets stuck to the wood. I tugged firmly and gently and they released from the wood. The grommets were done right. I wanted to add a lovely brown and gold trim to the bodice. I pinned the trim onto the bodice and sewed slowly and carefully. I used that for the casing for the boning. I set in the grommets where the boning was supposed to go. I am not changing that. It is fine. It was so much work. It was all so much work. 

The reason why I have written so much here about the colors and textures of the fabric is because there are no guarantees at first when sewing. I want the fabrics, colors and textures to harmonize, synergize. It all has to blend and look great, not just hand sewn. I want it all to look store bought. That is how the pattern should look in the end. That means it depends on me to do my very best sewing. There is no room for error. The result is something I can be proud of. So I like to work out the details as I am sewing or before I even start sewing. I put a lot of thought into my sewing projects. Okay, okay, I am obsessive with my sewing projects. I have no idea what comes over me. I should get just as obsessive about my other creative projects, but that’s just me. Imagine what I could accomplish! ha ha. Perhaps I can wear the brown corset with my new blue skirt! 

In other news, I have renewed the contract with Baynam Books Press for The Cult of the Spider People. The edits are done and now I look forward to seeing the new version! The editor/ publisher Crystal Baynam is changing the front cover of my book. The Bone Chillers #1 will be removed. Ah well. The new version is much better edited. 

I ordered a sample of an aesthetic scrapbook sample in the mail. It is not what I thought. The blue book is so tiny. The stickers look great. I will use it in my brown hand bound poetry journal. 

I look foward to receiving the sewing pattern in the mail. Once I do, I shall post all about it here and I will post more about Imbolc too! Let me know more about your own creative endeavours in the comments! I look forward to it.

The Grand Reveal

Blessings, Spiderwitch

 

 

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My Dark Avenger- Dante the Doll

My new doll

Merry meet all,

I was gifted a new pair of winter boots. I am so happy and so are my feet. Living in Atlantic Canada, you need a comfortable truly insulating pair of winter boots.  I love them. I recently made myself a new doll. I made the doll, my dark avenger, because I am so tired of the pain and toxicity I encounter. It has been so bad it has changed me. But not for the worse, but rather for the better. It does no good to be naive but it doesn’t have to turn you into someone bitter or hateful, either. 

I love my doll and I have named him Dante. He is all black with two buttons for eyes and a black button for the nose. He has a red mouth, a grey and red cape, and I stuffed with specific herbs. The herbs are meant to protect me. The herbs are sage, wormwood, nettle, pine needles, High John the Conqueror, mandrake, oak bark and Devil’s Claw Root. I stirred the herbs in a bowl with a wooden spoon, empowering the herbs with protective energy to protect me. He smells good! His hair is made from purple yarn. Dante is a dashing little fellow. I created him with care. Dante sports a necklace of skulls and pentacles and he bears a protection rune on the front, on his chest. I want to add horns and a tail to Dante too. 

I just love how Dante turned out. He looks great and he makes me feel good each time I hold him or look at him. Dante will always watch over me and guard me. That is the intention I put into him. I found a pattern to make a poppet doll and just enlarged the pattern. Then I sewed him together with care and love. I like to take pride in the things I do. They turn out better and last longer. My other doll, Minerva will get to know Dante too. 

I am tired of the pain and hate and toxicity. I received a flash of inspiration and next thing I knew, since I am happiest when I am creative, I was sewing myself a doll. I am tired of being a sponge for all that. No one needs that. Ever since Covid, everything has gone to pot. I hope the world gets better. The doll will now protect me. He is my little friend who will make sure no one ever hurts me again. This does not mean I won’t have my moments or that I won’t ever encounter anything negative ever again, like I am not a god. I am human but it sure feels good now to have Dante around. 

Penny is a sweet munchkin. She probably tries to protect me too. She is always available for a cuddle, whether I am happy or sad. So let’s love our little avengers- dolls, cats or a dog, whatever you have near you that loves you. We know the world could use a lot more love. Let’s choose love!

Imbolc approaches! 

Blessings, Spiderwitch 

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Mirror, mirror on the wall

Merry meet all,

I know, I know, as if Covid wasn’t bad enough, it is also the middle of winter and spring seems a way off. Snow frosts the yard and garden here. To cheer myself up, this is how I have spent my time. A copy of Lisa Morton’s book Ghosts: A Haunted history. I am sure it will be an awesome spooky read. I polished an article about Paranormal paganism for the editor of Witches and Pagans magazine at her request. I am still slogging away on my brown wool winter coat. My lining material has strangely vanished from my apartment. I have no idea where it went. It’s been nearly a month and it hasn’t turned up. My Mom bought the last of the brown wool online as the fabric store had discontinued it. I would not have been able to sew the sleeves.  I am buying new lining fabric in a different color by the end of the week. I am also slowly slogging away on a new novella story. 

I have been busy. On top of slaving for my cat, as per protocol, I conducted a Sherlock Holmes worthy investigation of where the fabric could have vanished to. I did bring home a new mirror. I never saged it when I brought it home. Now I have smudged my apartment, spritzed holy water onto the mirror and smudged the mirror. I plan to sew a long white cloth and empower the cloth with a blue rune symbol like Eolh as a binding symbol for protection. 

Mirrors are known to be portals for spirits, especially unsavory spirits. Some people believe that if you have a mirror in your bedroom, your partner will cheat on you. Ouch! Others believe that you should cover the mirror with a white cloth at night if  you do plan to have a mirror in your room. Right now, the long mirror is in my bedroom with the back of the mirror facing up. I am broke right now and as soon as I can, I will cover the mirror at night. I want to buy a bagua. I believe in Feng Shui. Maybe incense too!

However, I can’t explain how my fabric managed to VANISH from a tiny, cluttered apartment. It is nowhere to be found. I blame the new mirror. I have to blame something. It is truly weird that fabric can disappear. It never left the apartment. I have waited all month for it to return to me and no luck. I beleive now I can’t use that lining fabric for my coat. I have to buy new lining fabric that has good energy in it. I am now not in love with the color anyway. 

Some day I might find that fabric and then kick myself for the rest of my life. It will turn up in the most odd or unlikely place. In the meantine, I have sewn the hood for the coat, the belt and the outer shell of the coat. I have yet to sew the sleeves and set them in the coat, and line the coat and sew on the carriers for the belt. I am pleased with how beautifully the shoulder seam sleeves and the under collar turned out. I stitched a perfect brown wool belt too and the buckle is a gold color. The gold perfectly enhances the brown wool. Wool can be turned right side out. It just takes patience and being gentle with the wool. 

Eventually, the winter coat will be completed and look just beautiful. I can’t wait. I know my strawberry blonde hair color will be enhanced by the brown wool. The gold buckle looks beautiful on the brown Kashmir wool. I borrowed a book about couture sewing and a book from the library about sewing. I also bought the Vogue fashion sewing book from Thriftbooks. I chose Thriftbooks because it is much cheaper than Amazon and more reliable. I was scammed by a seller on Amazon. 

I invested in a thread box that stores thread- no more searching!, and a tailor ham, tailor’s chalk, new sharper scissors which hugely helps and are only for sewing. I do plan to buy a sleeve roll so I can perfectly sew the sleeves. I plan to interface the sleeeves and add a sleeve head. That is so the wool fabric is smoother and more professional looking. My Mom has offered to sew the buttonholes. I have never done that before and I am terrified. I have a button hole foot but she can do it better than I can. With a wool coat, there is no room for error. I plan to sew the buttons on by hand. The sewing needle might hit the button part itself, not the hole or break. I can’t wait!

Blessings, Spiderwitch

 

 

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Wool coat of my dreams in the Making

Merry meet all,

I am bitten by the sewing bug once again! My next sewing project is a wool coat. Inspirations seized me! I wish the muse would arrive and help me with writing the same way but that’s another story. The coat will be tons of hard work. I am nervous about sewing it so to combat my anxiety, I have researched how others have done it and how it is done. I have been lucky so far. The pattern is vintage and has lots of details: a lined hood with darts, buttons and buttonholes, facing and interfacing, upper and lower collars, a centre front and back with middle fronts and backs, and side front and side back. It is enough to scare the most seasoned sewer. 

This project will not be an instant overnight effort. It may take me a week to a month to sew the coat. I have the lining fabric, I have cut out the pattern tissue, the pattern pieces. I want to do a mock up of the whole garment but I can’t afford it right now. I did a mock up of the sleeves. I am really glad I did for two reasons: I realized I needed to add an inch to the lower hem of the under sleeves on each arm and I learned how to sew the under sleeve to the upper sleeve. I also learned how the sleeve would feel on my body. I can easily move my arm up, down and in a circle. Making adjustments early on in the construction of the coat saves a person so much pain later on. When I cut out the pattern pieces (of the wool), I laid the whole 4 meters down on the floor and cut each pattern piece out in a single layer. I had to sweep and mop the floor – cat hair much? Then I flipped over the pattern tissue to cut the pattern on the left side. The fabric covered the kitchen floor. 

I like the colour of the lining for the coat. It matches the coat and has a brown reddish colour but it will do. The interfacing is black except for the belt. The black interfacing will match the brown wool coat. The fabric for the coat is a gorgeous brown soft wool/polyester fabric. I love it. Oh so beautiful! The interfacing for the belt is white but it will be concealed. I have the threads, a belt buckle, the belt pattern is cut out and ready to go and I cut out the pattern too for the belt carriers. The belt does not go with the McCalls 6800 pattern B, but I love how couture it looks. So the belt stays. 

I pinned the centre front, middle front and side front patterns together and tried it on. The centre front pattern piece stops just above my knee. The pattern of the coat has a high and low hem. I hope it all fits me correctly. I might get a bit of fabric from Fabricville so I can do a mock up of the rest of the coat. Or if that isn’t possible, I can pin all the pattern pieces together and try it on and see how it fits on me. I don’t own a full length mirror or a dress form (at least not one that truly mirrors my figure), so I have to wait until I can get a mirror. In the meantime, I will pin all the pattern pieces together then see how it fits on me. Again, if I am to make a mock up of the left side of the whole coat for myself, I need newspaper, tracing paper, muslin etc, to do it. 

I still have to cut out the lining and the interfacing for the coat. After that, I need to transfer all the markings and notches to the wrong side of the pattern on the wool fabric. I am going to make my own press cloth. I don’t want to scorch the wool and so I will not be pressing on the top right side of the garment, only on the wrong side. I sew the facings to the lining and sew the lining and facing to the coat. That is so just nightmare inducing. I can’t get my head around how I turn the facing and lining to the inside of the coat. But I am not at that stop yet. I am grateful that I had enough fabric for all these pattern pieces. I searched for the fabric at Fabricville but I didn’t see it there. I purchased 4.5 meters of the beautiful soft brown wool. There was not much remaining on the bolt after that. I also bought the wool on sale – 50% off a meter! Excellent. 

Anything that is worth doing is worth all the hard effort. I am confident I will turn out a beautiful brown wool coat. This investment has to last a lifetime. Wool is a resilient fabric! I completed the bodice corset that I sewed to accompany the awesome black witchy top I bought from Killstar. I need to add on a black bias tape so the lining of the corset doesn’t show on the outside or top side of the bodice. I need to stock up on extra bobbins. 

This may be extra ambitious of me well, anyone hoping to sew a wool coat is ambitious period, but I’m sewing my own press cloth. I just laid two pieces of white cloth together and tucked in the raw edges. I ironed and pressed it. I will sew it once I have an extra bobbin. I was hoping to go to Fabricville today but I have to wait the delivery of a parcel- a bad ass hoodie from Wish. I have muslin for a press cloth fabric but the sewing machine won’t sew muslin. Argh! I am not the patient type but in order to make the coat, I shall have to try. 

The next turn in the Wheel of the Year is Imbolc! I shall keep you posted!

 

Blessings, Spiderwitch

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Skull Pyjama Pants

Merry meet all,

I just sewed a pair of awesome spooky Pyjama pants. I love them. It was so easy and so much fun to make I had to share it with you. It is so easy to do. You can do it in one day or in a few days. 

I borrowed a pattern from my Mom. Her pattern was so simple. But there is the problem. It’s not really all that simple. Since I had a skull print on the fabric, I wanted to ensure the direction of the print was correct. I laid out the fabric on my kitchen table. I made sure the direction of the skulls was in unison. The skulls go down the pants not up. I hope I explained that clearly. I have included a photo of the skull Pyjama pants. Maybe that will help. 

Then I cut out 4 pieces on the selvage. I had 4 pieces of fabric. Then I stitched them together – the inside of the legs. I used a straight stitch. Then I sewed the crotch area. I reinforced the stitches. That means I stitched twice to strengthen the stitches so they don’t unravel. Then I sewed the front and back sides together. I tried the pants on. Yay they fit! When I was sure that they fit, I proceeded to the next step. 

I did a finishing stitch on the seam allowances of the pant legs. I did a long nice zigzag stitch. That prevents the fabric from fraying. But I hit a snag. There is always a snag when sewing. I needed to set the sewing machine to the right settings to do a zigzag stitch. I had to watch the tutorial on how to do that again. 

I pinned down an inch or two of fabric at the waistline. I did that to make sure I had enough of a casing for the elastic. I pinned the bottom hems of both legs of the pants. Then I stitched the pant hems. I stitched again to strengthen the stitch. I then sewed the casing for the waistline. I worked in the elastic using a safety pin. I looked in the mirror and armed with chalk- and securing the elastic in my fingers, I measured how much elastic I needed. Always have more elastic at hand than you plan to use. You are always better off using more than less. You cannot compromise on this step. Or it will never fit you properly. I also tested my pants for fit by sitting down in the pants to see if they truly fit me and do a few stretches. When I was sure they fit, I stitched the ends of the elastic, tucked it in the hole and stitched the hole closed. I wore the  pants for a moment. Yup they felt good. I was so happy. It was so easy to do. 

Just like the elastic, I encourage any of you who are eager to try this to have more fabric than you need. It is o easy to err when sewing. Always err on the side of caution. If you are using a print like mine, decide how you want the print to go. The skull print goes down the pants on both sides- front and back. This is in unison or consistent. It makes it look store bought. 

Now I have an awesome affordable cool pair of Pyjama pants to wear with my diabolical dark lord slippers. !! I love how they turned out. Paying attention to the details ensure a beautiful garment in the end. It is easy to have problems as you are sewing such as the elastic twisting in the casing, not enough elastic or fabric or running out of thread. Taking care of those tiny details ahead of time saves you the trip to the fabric store in the rain- when you could have been sewing. 

When you sew the zigzag stitch, be neat and clean. Sew it next to the straight stitch or on it. The point of the zigzag stitch is to prevent fraying. If you look carefully at a garment in your wardrobe, you might just see a zigzag seam on your clothes. It will be found on the inside of your garment. Look even closer and you can see how neatly it is done. Yup that is what I am talking about. You can adjust the stitch to be wide or a narrow zigzag stitch. Try not to sew the zigzag stitch outside or far from the seam allowance. Sew it on the seam allowance, inside the seam allowance. It will look neater that way. If you think you can do it, a smaller seam allowance leaves you more fabric. It may help the pants fit you better. 

Remember this maxim when sewing: Measure twice, cut once. I can’t emphasize that enough. It is so true. When you hem the pants, you don’t always have to do a narrow hem. I didn’t. I just folded up the hem on the inside of the pants an inch or two. I secured the fabric with pins then sewed it. I did it twice to ensure it would not come undone. The fabric I used can unravel easily. I had to be careful. The stitches show on the right side of the fabric. But I took the extra time to make the seams neat. I can see it but I don’t know if others can. There are so many black lines on the print it may not be visible to everyone. 

That is how you sew your own pjs! It is so easy to do. Most fabric stores carry fabric patterns. It certainly is a cheap way to make a pair of pyjama pants. I love mine. It’s even better that I can wear my Dark Lord slippers with them. I ordered the slippers from Killstar. But I didn’t plan to pay for shipping and handling for pjs- not when I made mine look that cook! I also plan to set in a black tie or ribbon for the pj pants. That will be the finishing touch! 

Does this inspire you to sew your own pyjama pants? I hope so. 

Blessings, Spiderwitch

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