Merry meet all,
Spring is on its way! Ostara is just around the corner. Ostara, or the spring equinox, is the second spring Sabbat in the wheel of the year.
I made progress with my wool coat. I have finally sewn the coat lining. That was a real headache. I added a half inch to each lining section and each of the eleven sections were cut on the grain. This means that the lining won’t pull or twist when I wear it with the wool exterior. I sewed the sleeves. I had to ease the two sleeve pieces in together. I eased the sleeve on one side then I pinned the 2 pieces together. I used the iron to stretch the wool to make the upper and lower sleeve pieces fit together. The wool is thick and I can hardly even get a pin through. It worked. Now I set in two rows of basting stitches within the seam allowance of the sleeve crown. The thread is a contrast color to make it easier to remove them later.
I was so tired but I worked hard stitching all eleven sections of the lining together. Then I did a fitting once the whole coat lining was sewn. The coat lining was sewn with a 4’8 inch stitch. The wool coat was sewn with a 5’8′ inch stitch. I have to set in the sleeves, sew the belt carriers, sew the upper collar to the coat lining, sew the lining to the coat and hem it. Then once I am happy with that, I will sew in the buttonholes. I already purchased the buttons for the coat. My sewing machine has a button foot but I have zero experience sewing buttonholes. I know someone who will help with that step but that happens later.
The coat is coming along beautifully. I have to correct the seam allowances in the sleeve area of the wool exterior. I tapered to 3’8′ of an inch instead of 5’8′ inches. If I correct all that, then the sleeves will set in perfectly. There is a bit of work to be done but it will all pay off in the end. I have to sew the lining sleeves the exact same way I did with the wool sleeves. The lining always mimics the exterior of the coat. I am sure it will be beautiful.
The research and the reading I did has paid off. I now feel more confident sewing the coat. I intend to finish the coat this week or early next week. After all, I have waited two months for this. Spring will be here then there will be no point to wearing a wool coat. Yup I better make it happen!
I not only gain a beautiful coat. I have gleaned new useful knowledge from sewing the coat. I love using a tailor’s ham and honestly don’t know how I lived without it. I also now own a sleeve roll which will soon prove very useful. I cut the lining sections on the grain which means the garment will hang more correctly on your body. I added interfacing to the sleeve caps to prevent stretching. I added a strip of interfacing to the pockets of the coat to prevent stretching. I added interfacing to the collar sections even though I didn’t have to, but it will strengthen the collar sections. I plan to add shoulder pads to the coat. I decided against sewing on a fur collar. If the fur sheds, it won’t look good. I am sewing on a detachable lined hood. I may make the hood permanent because sewing buttonholes on the hood with all that bulk will be next to impossible. That is why the belt carriers are sewn on before the lining is added. There is a lot to consider in the proper construction of a wool coat.
I added the shoulder pads, sewed the sleeves into the coat lining and sewed the lining to the coat. It was far from complete, though. The wool coat is now lined. The collar points were sewn to perfection thanks to my Mom. The wool sleeves are attached. It has been tons of hard work. The lining has to be hemmed and the buttonholes have to be done. So much work!!!! She wants to fix the belt carriers and sew in the buttonholes. So much work!!!
The photo shows the progress of the coat so far!
The coat is done. All that remains to be done is to sew on the hood. I am so happy with the coat. It looks so beautiful.
Spring is coming. I should start planning which seeds I will start soon. I have lots and lots of seeds. I can’t wait to get to work on my garden again.
Blessed be, Spiderwitch
